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A Beginner's Guide to Buying a Watch was written to help readers who are new to watches and need assistance in determining the basics of a watch in order to make an informed purchase decision.
Quartz vs. Mechanical
(We do not focus on smartwatches.) When buying a quality timepiece, you should consider whether you want a quartz or mechanical timepiece.
It is usually inexpensive, easy to maintain, and highly accurate (typical accuracy is 15+/- seconds per month). Quartz watches are powered by batteries, which typically last for three years with a lithium battery. In some cases, the battery is rechargeable, so sunlight "solar-powered" (like a Citizen Eco-Drive) recharges it; or wrist movement "rotor-powered" (hybrid like a Seiko Kinetic) recharges it (not to be confused with a mechanical timepiece rotor).
Although mechanical watches are more expensive than quartz, most modern timepieces are very accurate (the best watches, some of which are officially certified chronometers, are accurate to 5+/- seconds per day or better). In a mechanical watch, the mainspring is either wound manually (as in the old-fashioned way) or automatically (self-winding) by oscillating a rotor that winds as you move your wrist.
Unlike quartz, the power that is reserved is usually only enough for a few days, so if left unattended, the watch will need to be reset and wound (this is why automatic watch winders exist). The best mechanical timepieces also allow you to wind them manually (some cheaper models do not). Despite the fact that mechanical timepieces are more expensive to maintain than quartz timepieces, they are not too expensive given how long it takes between maintenance.
Mechanical wristwatches are the only true watches, according to purists. The first wristwatches were mechanical, of course, and there's a certain charm to owning and wearing one. While most people who enjoy mechanical timepieces also own quartz timepieces, everyone has to start somewhere.
Case and Caseback
Watch cases have an important role to play when choosing a watch. Various factors should be taken into account, including material, shape, and size.
Most watches come in round shapes, so it's hard to go wrong with that. Alternative watch case shapes include rectangles, squares, ovals, octagons, and tonneau shapes.
The diameter of a watch case is very important because everyone's wrists are different, so it is highly recommended that you try on any watch before you buy it. The lug-to-lug length, which measures across your wrist, is equally important or even more important. When the lug-to-lug length exceeds your wrist width, it hangs over.
Vintage watches (watches at least 25 years old) tend to have much smaller diameters than many of the timepieces made today. Not only does the watch's diameter affect its appearance, it also affects its comfort. A watch with an oversized crown could dig into your wrists and be very uncomfortable to wear if it is too big. The thickness of the watch is also important. Too thick can be uncomfortable, so make sure you try it before purchasing.
It is also important to consider the case material when buying a timepiece. Stainless steel, ceramic, titanium, gold, and platinum are the most prevalent materials for cases. In terms of quality, price, and value, stainless steel is probably the best metal all around for watchmaking. In most cases, watch cases are made of stainless 316L, but Rolex and a handful of other brands use a more premium and weather-resistant stainless steel called 904L.
In addition to being very light, titanium and ceramic both have the benefit of being scratch resistant, although ceramic is also brittle and can crack when dropped, while titanium does not.
Both titanium and steel are not highly scratch-resistant, but hard coatings such as PVD/DLC (generally black or grey) can make them very scratch-resistant.
In addition to providing the most flashiness, gold (which is usually available in white, yellow, pink) and platinum are the most expensive case materials. Furthermore, gold and platinum are extremely heavy. In contrast to stainless steel alloys like 316L, 18K gold is relatively soft and therefore easily scratched, which is why it is commonly used for watch cases.
When it comes to quartz watches, the caseback is almost always solid. It makes no sense to see the mechanics in a quartz timepiece. Mechanical watches are typically beautiful, so the caseback is usually open or clear.
A mineral crystal may be used in the back instead of a sapphire crystal to reduce costs, but most watches with clear casebacks will use a sapphire crystal. For diver watches, professional instrument watches, and sports watches, the caseback is usually solid (steel or titanium is most common) to ensure water resistance and robustness.
Watch Crystal
There are three types of glass on timepieces: plexiglass, mineral crystal, and sapphire crystal. Vintage watches and low-priced watches commonly feature plastic. Mineral crystals are usually found on entry-level watches. Sapphire crystals are the most premium type of crystal, as they are very clear and virtually scratchproof (however, be careful since their hardness makes them extremely brittle, which can cause them to shatter).
In most cases, sapphire glass should be used unless you're buying a watch for under $500, or a vintage timepiece. It is also a good idea to have two anti-reflective coatings (inside and outside). Anti-glare treatment is often overlooked or done poorly by some companies. You will quickly realize how important it is to have an anti-reflective coating when you compare a timepiece with and without it on a sunny day.
Functions or Complications
In a three-hand timepiece, there are hours, minutes, and seconds displayed (in rare cases, just the hours). Dual time zones, world timers, chronographs, alarms, power reserves, and dates are some of the functions that are most popular. Tourbillons, split-second chronographs, flyback chronographs, perpetual calendars, and minute repeaters are among the advanced functions (also called complications).
Strap or Bracelet
There are many great choices when it comes to straps or bracelets. There are calfskin leather straps, alligator straps, suede leather, vintage leather, rubber, textile, metal bracelets, and Nato bracelets. The best way to change out your straps or bracelets for different occasions or outfits is to own several different ones.
Things to Consider
In addition to price, brand, history, resale, discounts, reliability, and durability, there are other important things to consider.
In 2021, resale will be particularly relevant since only a handful of brands and models within those brands sell for retail (at the store level) or above retail. In terms of stainless steel professional and sports watches, Rolex is the most dominant, and particularly when it comes to their Daytona and Sky-Dweller watches, which command the highest resale values. Also, Patek Philippe is one to consider with one of the most popular watches being the Nautilus 5711, as well as the Aquanaut and many of their other references, particularly stainless steel ones. As of April 2021, there is no sign of a slowdown in the secondary market for Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille. However, there is no guarantee how long this will last. It is also worth considering Omega and Vacheron Constantin as brands that may achieve this status in the short term.
Today, many watch brands sell directly online, and buying online is safer than ever before. However, be careful who you deal with. To ensure authenticity, you should only buy from authorized dealers or directly from the manufacturer. However, there are reputable secondary sellers that are worth dealing with, as well as private sellers. If you are buying a car from a private person, always meet the buyer/seller in a public place like a watch store, coffee shop, or your bank - to reduce the chance of being robbed.